Quick Fitment Checklist

• Bolt pattern matches your vehicle (e.g., 5×114.3).
• Center bore is hub-centric (wheel bore ≥ hub; use hub-centric rings if larger).
• Offset (ET) stays within ~±5–10 mm of stock unless you’ve confirmed clearance.
• Backspacing keeps inner barrel off struts, spring perches, and sway bars.
• Brake clearance verified (spoke design + barrel depth) — if unsure, ask us to confirm.
• Wheel load rating ≥ your heavier axle GAWR ÷ 2 (per wheel) with 10% margin.
• Outer tire diameter stays within ±3% of OEM to protect gearing & speedometer.
• Lug seat type matches (cone vs ball vs mag) with correct lug nuts/bolts, thread pitch & torque.
• TPMS compatibility understood.
• Use-case fit (daily ride, off-road clearance, track weight, towing capacity).

Pro tip: If two sizes both fit, the lighter wheel (lower unsprung mass) usually rides, handles, and stops better.

Wheel Fitment Basics

Width (e.g., 8.5") is measured bead-to-bead; overall rim width is ~1" wider including flanges.

Diameter (e.g., 18") must clear brakes and match a tire that keeps overall OD near stock.

Bolt pattern: number of lugs × circle diameter (e.g., 6×139.7). Explore custom wheels.

Center bore: the wheel’s hub hole. If it’s larger than your hub, add hub-centric rings.

Offset (ET): mm from the wheel’s centerline to the mounting face. Positive ET tucks inward; negative ET pushes outward.

Offset, Backspacing & Scrub Radius

• Too much positive offset: inner wheel/tire may rub the strut/spring at full lock or over bumps.
• Too much negative offset: outer lip can contact fenders; steering feel may worsen.
• Scrub radius changes with offset and tire width; large changes can affect stability and steering kick-back.

Goal: keep effective offset near stock unless you’re widening with known clearance.

Rule of thumb: When increasing width by 1" (25.4 mm), moving offset ~6 mm toward positive keeps the inner/outer positions similar. Always verify actual clearances.

Need more inner or outer clearance? Consider properly sized wheel spacers & adapters and contact us for guidance.

Diameter & Width: Plus-Sizing the Smart Way

• Keep overall tire diameter within ±3% of OEM.
• Larger diameter reduces sidewall for crisper turn-in but can increase harshness and curb-rash risk.
• Wider wheels/tires improve grip but may tramline and reduce snow performance.

Quick example: Stock tire OD = 27.0". A new combo between 26.2" and 27.8" stays within the 3% guideline.

Load Ratings: Safety for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

• Each wheel’s load rating must meet or exceed the heavier axle’s GAWR ÷ 2.
• For towing/overlanding, add extra margin; select wheels and tires with LT (Light Truck) ratings when appropriate.
• Never down-rate from OEM capacity.

Brake, Hub & Lug Details

• Brake clearance is a combo of barrel diameter and spoke design; big-brake kits often need template checks.
• Hub-centric rings (plastic or aluminum) remove vibration if the bore is larger than the hub.
• Lug seat type must match: conical (most aftermarket), ball (many European OEM), mag/flat (some trucks).
• Thread pitch and lug length must be correct; torque to vehicle spec and re-torque after 50–100 miles.
• TPMS: transfer OEM sensors or use compatible aftermarket sensors; a relearn procedure may be required.

Use-Case Picks (Daily, Off-Road, Track, Towing)

Daily Driver / All-Season

• Size: +0 to +1 diameter, modest width increase.
• Offset: near OEM.
• Priorities: ride, durability, corrosion resistance.
• Construction: quality cast or flow-formed.

Off-Road / Overlanding

• Size: smaller diameter, taller sidewall for compliance and protection.
• Offset: slightly lower (more poke) only if needed for upright/UCA clearance; watch fenders.
• Consider: true beadlock (check legality) or beadlock-look for aired-down traction.
• Load: high; pair with LT-rated tires.

Track / Autocross

• Choose lighter wheels; consider a square setup to rotate tires.
• Construction: flow-formed or forged for strength-to-weight.
• Offset: tune for strut clearance and fender with your camber settings.

Towing / Heavy Duty

• Prioritize load rating and heat management.
• Verify hub bore on trucks (many are hub-centric).
• Avoid extreme low-profile tires; favor robust finishes that resist dust/salt.

Materials & Construction

• Gravity-cast: budget-friendly, heavier.
• Low-pressure cast: stronger than gravity cast; common OEM quality.
• Flow-formed/rotary-forged: lighter barrel, excellent value/strength.
• Fully forged (monoblock): lightest & strongest, premium cost.
• Multi-piece (2/3-pc): customizable widths/offsets; inspect hardware periodically.

Finishes & Corrosion Resistance

• Powder coat is durable; clear-coated machined faces look sharp but need care.
• Winter use: prefer painted/powder-coated over polished bare aluminum; rinse road salt often.
• Dark finishes hide dust; silver hides rash better; matte can spot-clean poorly.

Budget & Warranty Tips

• Prioritize certifications (e.g., JWL/VIA/TÜV where applicable).
• Compare weight and load rating at the same size.
• Review finish warranty terms (winter/salt exclusions are common).
• Buy from sellers that provide fitment guarantees and clear return policies.

Step-by-Step: How to Measure for Wheels

1. Grab your OEM specs: wheel size, offset, bolt pattern, center bore, tire size (door-jamb placard/owner’s manual).
2. Map clearances: check inner (strut/spring, upright, brake hoses) and outer (fender lip, liners) at full lock and full compression.
3. Pick target width/diameter based on use case; shortlist offsets that keep inner/outer positions safe.
4. Calculate backspacing to ensure inner barrel clearance.
5. Confirm brake template (ask the wheel maker or use a printable template).
6. Validate load rating against your GAWRs (front/rear).
7. Choose finish & hardware: correct lug seat, thread pitch, hub rings, center caps, and TPMS plan.
8. Mount & torque correctly; re-torque after 50–100 miles.

FAQs

Can I put bigger wheels on my car or SUV?

Yes—if you keep overall tire diameter within ±3% of stock and preserve offset so nothing rubs. Expect a firmer ride with larger diameters and shorter sidewalls.

What offset do I need?

Start with OEM offset and adjust within ~±5–10 mm as width changes. Verify inner/outer clearances physically or with a fitment calculator/template.

What’s backspacing vs. offset?

Offset is in mm from centerline; backspacing is inches from mounting face to inner rim edge.

Do I need hub-centric rings?

Only if the wheel bore is larger than your hub. Hub-centric rings help center the wheel and reduce vibration.

Forged vs. flow-formed—what should I choose?

Flow-formed offers a great strength-to-weight value for street/track. Forged is strongest/lightest but pricier—ideal for performance or heavy-duty needs.

Will 20" ride worse than 18"?

Usually yes, because the sidewall is shorter. You’ll feel more road texture and impacts.

Best wheel finish for winter?

Painted/powder-coated with a strong clear coat. Avoid bare polished finishes in salted climates.

Do I need new lug nuts/bolts?

Possibly. Seat type and thread pitch must match. Many aftermarket wheels use conical seats and may require thin-wall sockets. See lug nuts and wheel bolts.